Author Archives: aradmin

Consider the Hotel Breakfast Waffle

Travel Blog  •  Eva Holland  •  04.24.13 | 6:23 AM ET

In the Washington Post, veteran travel writer Tom Haines ponders the rise of the free hotel breakfast—specifically, the dominance of the DIY waffle maker—and what it means for travelers. “This is comfort without community,” he writes, “as the mood in these hotel breakfast rooms feels neither home nor away. There’s an isolation-among-the-crowd sense in the breakfast area that resembles that of an airline terminal: Everyone alone together while waiting to move on.” He goes on:

It is worth considering the costs of this world of waffles all cooked from the same mold. If the lure is to sleep, eat and move on, we Americans taste less and less of the diverse character of the country we call home. And as individuals, we miss the discovery that can come with the unexpected.

(Via @myessis)



Mapped: Bob Dylan’s Entire Repertoire

Travel Blog  •  Eva Holland  •  05.28.13 | 7:48 AM ET

To celebrate Bob Dylan’s 72nd birthday, Slate has mapped every place the man ever mentioned in his music. Why, you ask?

Once the amateur Dylanologist tries to think of some, they flood the brain. “I’ll look for you in old Honolulu/ San Francisco, Ashtabula.” “Born in Red Hook, Brooklyn/ In the year of who knows when.” “Oxford town, Oxford town/ Everybody’s got their head bowed down.” From the personal—“that little Minnesota town”—to the political—“Ever since the British burned the White House down/ There’s a bleeding wound in the heart of town”—Dylan uses place-names to maintain rhythm or rhyme, to reference other works of art, or to evoke certain thoughts and emotions. (We never do learn what it’s like “to be stuck inside of Mobile with the Memphis blues again,” though we feel like we do.) It’s only natural, after all, that a man who left tiny Hibbing, Minn. for New York City at age 19, quickly became world-famous, and has spent the last 25 years on a “never-ending” worldwide tour, might have a curious perspective on the concept of place.

Enjoy.



Grantland Goes to the Iditarod

Travel Blog  •  Eva Holland  •  05.09.13 | 7:09 AM ET

This past March, Grantland sent writer Brian Phillips to follow the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race, Alaska’s famous 1000-mile feat of endurance, by bush plane. The resulting story, Out in the Great Alone, comes with all sorts of online design bells and whistles—embedded audio and video, and a map that updates itself as you scroll through the narrative. But what I liked best about it was its emphasis on place, not so much on the ins and outs of the race itself but on the landscapes and communities it passes through. Here’s Phillips:

I took a walk through the village. Couple of roads twisting down a couple of hills, some pretty rough-looking houses. Moose antlers over the doorways. Things happen to the color blue during an Alaska twilight that I’ve never seen anywhere else. Imagine that the regular, daytime blue sky spends all its time floating on the night sky, the way you’d float on the surface of a pool. Now it’s submerging itself. You could see it vanishing upward. The cars looked derelict, half-buried in snow. Snowdrifts rammed up doorknob-high against the houses. Every now and again a snow machine would go screaming by; the drivers always waved. Snow 3 and 4 feet high on the roofs.

But it was such a warm place. I mean, fine, we’re all cynics here, go ahead and click over to your next open tab or whatever, but you could feel it: this fragile human warmth surrounded by almost unmanageable sadness. Outside the checkpoint building the Takotnans had set up a row of burled tree stumps beside the flagpoles, and now two guys with chain saws were carving long crosscuts in the stumps. Each night during the Iditarod they’d pour diesel into one stump’s cuts and then light it, making a torch as wide as two people embracing that’d burn for hours and hours. Mushers coming down the river toward the checkpoint would see the torches from—I don’t know about miles, but a long way away. Eight or nine villagers, along with a few volunteers, gathered around the fire. Jay was there, talking about airplanes with Bernard—you could tell from the way he’d sort of bank his hand at the wrist and slide it through the air. Christophe went around taking pictures. A little gang of kids played king of the hill on a snowdrift. The night just dwarfed all this.

It’s a long one, but worth your time. The New Yorker also sent a writer to follow the Iditarod this year; subscribers can read Ben McGrath’s story here.



New Travel Book: ‘The Turk Who Loved Apples’

Travel Blog  •  Eva Holland  •  05.08.13 | 8:30 AM ET

Veteran travel writer Matt Gross has just released his first book: The Turk Who Loved Apples, a collection of never-before-published stories about his life as a traveler. Gross is a former Frugal Traveler columnist for the New York Times—he’s also an occasional contributor to World Hum. The Portland Book Review calls his book “part memoir, part travel odyssey and part growing-up story,” and National Geographic’s Intelligent Travel blog has named it one of the best travel books to land in stores this spring.

You can read an excerpt over at the New York Times.



Investor already getting pushback over controversial airport deal

Channel 2 Action News is tracking powerful pushback against a controversial deal to bring commercial airline service to another metro Atlanta airport.

Delta Airlines and the city of Atlanta seem willing to do whatever it can to keep any commercial carriers from ever taking off from Paulding County’s airport.

Meantime, Channel 2 investigative reporter Aaron Diamant spoke to a local lawmaker who’s clearly annoyed he never got a heads up about the airport expansion deal before it got done.

“Very frustrating, very disappointing,” Paulding County commissioner Todd Pownall said.

He told Diamant he is livid he was left out of the loop.

“Sitting on the couch last night at 11 o’clock is how I found out,” Pownall told Diamant.

That’s when Channel 2 Action News first reported the Paulding County Airport Authority had very quietly signed a long-term deal with an investment group seeking to start up commercial service at the renamed Silver Comet Field outside Dallas.

“Naturally, we hope it works, but we’ve got to make sure that what we do in our community is good for our community and good for our citizens,” Pownall said.

Propeller Investment’s CEO Brett Smith signed a 40-year lease on the terminal and a lot of surrounding land. He’s already in talks with several airlines and is putting together proposals for aerospace and aviation companies to set up shop.

“The market clearly supports a second airport. There are a million people that live within 25 miles of this airport, and there are still $5.5 million people that live in the Atlanta metro area,” Smith said.

But Smith is already facing powerful pushback. On Friday, Delta Airlines CEO Richard Anderson told the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, “With the city of Atlanta and Mayor (Kasim) Reed, we will work together to oppose any investment in that facility.”

Meantime, a spokesperson for Reed said in a statement to Channel 2 Action News, “We intend to focus our energy on expanding the Hartsfield-Jackson campus and will not support Propeller Investment’s efforts to add commercial air service.”

Propeller Investments has already committed to spend $10 million for phase one of its plan. The airport will still own the terminal and the runway.

Plus it can end its lease with Smith’s company after just five years if he fails to meet certain goals.

Interview with Brendan I. Koerner: Love and Terror in ‘The Skies Belong to Us’

Travel Interviews: In the late 1960s and early 1970s, hijackings in American skies were routine. Eva Holland talks to the author of a new book about one young couple’s wild long-distance heist.

07.02.13 | 10:40 AM ET

Brendan I. Koerner (Photo: Will Star)

Once upon a time, hijackers took control of American planes almost every week. They demanded cash, or passage to Cuba, and sometimes they got away with both. This was the era of D.B. Cooper, and the final years of the Vietnam War, and a troubled country was fascinated by the epidemic. Among the skyjackers who enjoyed fleeting fame were Roger Holder and Cathy Kerkow, a young couple with vague ideas about protesting the war, rescuing imprisoned black activist Angela Davis, and escaping to a new life overseas.

Most of that era’s skyjackers have long since been forgotten. But in a new book, The Skies Belong to Us, author Brendan I. Koerner tells the unlikely story of Holder and Kerkow, perpetrators of the longest-distance hijacking in U.S. history. “The Skies” is a fascinating yarn that brings to life a strange period in aviation history. I got in touch with Koerner, a contributing editor at Wired, to ask about an era that most of today’s frequent fliers are too young to remember.

World Hum: How did you first get interested in the skyjacking era?

Brendan Koerner: In October 2009, I read a New York Times story about a man named Luis Armando Peña Soltren, a former Puerto Rican nationalist who had helped hijack a Pan Am jet to Cuba in 1968. After spending the next 41 years living in Fidel Castro’s socialist “paradise,” he had decided that he could no longer bear to remain apart from the wife and daughter he had left behind. So at the age of 66, Soltren elected to voluntarily return to the United States. He was, of course, arrested the moment he stepped off his plane at JFK Airport, on charges that carried a possible life sentence. (He ended up receiving 15 years in prison, though an appeal is in progress.)

Soltren’s story intrigued me for a couple of reasons. For starters, I was struck by the fact that it had taken him over four decades to muster the courage to reunite with his family. I wondered how his thought process had evolved over the years, so that he finally came to the realization that he would prefer an American prison cell to a Havana apartment. But more prosaically, I was just amazed that he had managed to hijack a plane in the first place—something that seems fairly unfathomable in this day and age of the infuriating TSA gauntlet.

When I did a little digging into Soltren’s case, I discovered that his hijacking was just one of scores that had occurred during the late 1960s and early 1970s. I had always been vaguely aware that aviation security used to be a bit more porous, but I had no idea that skyjacking had once been such a pervasive problem in the U.S.—there were periods when two planes were swiped every week! And the more I read about the phenomenon, the more engrossed I became in the narratives of desperation and delusion that lay behind each episode.

Out of all the characters who were hijacking planes in those years, how did you decide to focus on Holder and Kerkow?

It was Cathy Kerkow who first drew me in. Part of the reason was that she was a woman—skyjacking was primarily a male pursuit, so she stuck out from the Y-chromosome pack. But I was more intrigued by the fact that she didn’t have an obvious reason for getting involved in this bizarre escapade. She was just a fun-loving 20-year-old with no real history of political activism or criminality. So why would she turn her back on everything she had ever known in order to hijack a jet across an ocean? I became obsessed with trying to worm my way inside Kerkow’s head and figure out her motivations.

What sealed my infatuation with the story was the fact that Holder and Kerkow had crossed paths as children. When Holder discovered that fact back in January 1972, he took it as a cosmic omen that he and Kerkow were meant to do something spectacular together; I took it as a sign that if I passed up the chance to tell this tale, I would always regret it.

I was interested in the intersection of race, the Vietnam War, and the skyjacking epidemic. Was that a pattern that emerged during your research, or was it something that was noticed and acknowledged by observers at the time?

So many skyjackers were mentally unstable Vietnam veterans that the concept became something of a cliché: in the cheesy 1972 Charlton Heston film “Skyjacked,” for example, the bad guy (played by a young James Brolin) turns out to be a stereotypically frazzled vet who escaped from a psychiatric hospital. There wasn’t a lot of sympathy for these damaged men at the time, primarily because there was such a poor understanding of the psychological consequences of combat. Guys would come home to find that none of their friends or family members could understand what they had experienced, and that they were unable to cope with the demands of “normal” life. Sometimes those feelings of dislocation and bewilderment would morph into irrational anger, at which point skyjacking for escape or profit could seem like a reasonable solution—a radical way to right a wayward life.

As for race, I obviously went into the project knowing that Holder and Kerkow were an interracial couple, and I assumed that fact partly explained the chief goal of their hijacking—namely, to obtain the freedom of imprisoned black radical Angela Davis. But it wasn’t so easy to nail down how racial experiences had shaped the couple—Holder, for example, had been a victim of prejudice from both sides of the American racial divide, while Kerkow had gone through a superficial dalliance with the Black Panthers. My big takeaway from all my reporting is that although broad racial grievances played a role in a lot of skyjackings, they were often secondary to more deeply personal motives—love affairs gone wrong, disputes with the government, searing memories of Vietnam. In the thick of the epidemic, though, observers rarely bothered with such nuance—Holder and Kerkow were widely characterized as Black Panthers, even though neither one was a member of the party prior to the hijacking.

Another intriguing theme was the idea of airplanes as a symbol of American power and luxury. These days we hear a lot about the decline of air travel, of “flying buses,” and so on. This is the age of RyanAir and no-frills flight. Do you think planes still hold that kind of power, or has their luster faded?

This is something I discussed a lot with the retired airline pilots who I interviewed for the book. They’re a surprisingly close-knit bunch, with active alumni networks. That’s because they have such fond memories of their time in the skies—they genuinely enjoyed their jobs, because they felt they were part of something greater than merely ferrying customers from Point A to Point B. Commercial air travel was still something of a novelty back then, so passengers were often quite amazed to realize that they were hurtling through the air at 400 miles per hour while enjoying unlimited champagne. Pilots were viewed as debonair heroes, and the planes they commanded were regarded as symbols of America’s technological supremacy.

That awe has obviously faded over the decades, perhaps because we’ve grown so accustomed to air travel as a utility rather than a luxury. Planes just don’t hold the same allure for anyone too young to remember the Golden Age of Hijacking—myself included. I remember this one time back when I was a kid and I wanted to wear sweatpants on a trip somewhere. My dad was flabbergasted, because he always dressed up to get on planes—a blazer, a tie, nicely shined shoes. He couldn’t understand why I viewed air travel as just a mode of transportation, not some brief holiday in the skies. Writing this book gave me a much better understanding of where he was coming from—though, to be honest, I’m not sure I’ll ever dress to the nines for JetBlue.

You write a lot about the debate over privacy vs. security as American legislators grappled with the skyjacking threat and how to stop it. Were you tempted to draw parallels to the post-9/11 years?

I went back and forth on this issue a bunch of times, but I ultimately chose to stop short of dealing with 9/11 and its aftermath. I do flick at how the reliance on private contractors created serious security flaws, and how the airlines failed to update their crisis-management policies for decades. But going beyond mere hints about the catastrophe to come struck me as a notch too on-the-nose, and possibly exploitative. I trust that readers will grasp the parallels without me having made them explicit.

Finally, has any of this changed the way you fly?

Early on in my research, one of the pilots I interviewed sent me this beautiful scale model of a Boeing 727—the type of jet that Holder and Kerkow hijacked near Seattle. Holding it in my hands and checking out its unique three-engine design, I realized that I never paid attention to the sort of aircraft I traveled in—maybe for a moment while reading the safety card in the seat pocket, but not much beyond that. Now I totally geek out on planes, to the point that I can identify them as they fly overhead. That’s a really useful skill for me to have, seeing as how I have a curious five-year-old son and we live just two miles from LaGuardia Airport. The kid will grow up knowing his Airbuses from his Embraers, for sure.

Related on World Hum:


1 Comment for Interview with Brendan I. Koerner: Love and Terror in ‘The Skies Belong to Us’


Katie

07.15.13 | 11:17 AM ET

My grandfather was an American Airlines pilot and was hijacked to Cuba in the mid- 70’s. The hijackers were arrested in Havana and everyone on the plane was fine. I always wondered why it hadn’t been bigger news back then, but now I know why. The only casualities (thank god!!) were the cuban cigars my grandfather had confiscated from him as he was going through customs back in the US. Couldn’t even cut the guy a break!:)

The Atlantic: ‘How Learning a Foreign Language Reignited My Imagination’

Travel Blog  •  Eva Holland  •  05.30.13 | 7:56 AM ET

In the latest issue of The Atlantic, Ta-Nehisi Coates has a lovely short essay about traveling to Switzerland to study French, and the wonder of being immersed in the foreign:

I started studying French in the summer of 2011, in the throes of a mid-30s crisis. I wanted to be young again. Once, imagination was crucial to me. The books filled with trains, the toy tracks and trestles—they were among my few escapes from a world bounded by my parents’ will. In those days, I could look at a map of some foreign place and tell you a story about how the people there looked, how they lived, what they ate for dinner, and the exotic beauty of the neighborhood girls.

When you have your own money, your own wheels, and the full ownership of your legs, your need for such imagination, or maybe your opportunity to exercise it, is reduced.

And then I came to a foreign language, where so much can’t be immediately known, and to a small town where English feels like the fourth language. The signs were a mystery to me. The words I overheard were only the music of the human voice. A kind of silence came over me. I would hear snatches of conversation, or witness some strange way of behaving—the bartender’s reply, in French, of “Service” after you thank him for a drink—and wonder would take over.

I studied four hours every day at the school. Class began promptly at 8:30 a.m. (2:30 a.m. back in New York). I nursed a nasty bit of jet lag, but wonder drove me. Hearing a foreign language is like seeing a postcard from some other land, even when you are actually in that other land. I experienced my ignorance of words and grammar as a physical distance, as a longing for something that was mere inches away. In that gap, there was all the magic of childhood.



Delta flight diverted to Memphis due to cracked window

Delta Airlines says a flight was diverted to Memphis International Airport because of a crack in a window.

In a statement, Delta says Flight 557 was going from Detroit to Mexico City on Wednesday when crew members reported a small crack in one of the aircraft’s cockpit windows.

The Airbus A319 carrying 104 passengers and six crew members landed safely. No injuries were reported.

Delta says passengers were being placed on another flight.

Delta flight with cracked window lands in Memphis

MEMPHIS, Tenn. (AP) — Delta Airlines says a flight was diverted to Memphis International Airport because of a crack in a window.

In a statement, Delta says Flight 557 was going from Detroit to Mexico City on Wednesday when crew members reported a small crack in one of the aircraft’s cockpit windows.

The Airbus A319 carrying 104 passengers and six crew members landed safely. No injuries were reported.

Delta says passengers were being placed on another flight.

Delta flight from Detroit lands in Memphis with cracked window

Memphis, Tenn. Delta Airlines says a flight was diverted to Memphis International Airport because of a crack in a window.

In a statement, Delta says flight 557 was going from Detroit to Mexico City on Wednesday when crew members reported a small crack in one of the aircrafts cockpit windows.

The Airbus A319 carrying 104 passengers and six crew members landed safely. No injuries were reported.

Delta says passengers were being placed on another flight.